Hidden Gem?
Exquisitely presented and priced at a premium, does the 1975 Marcillac Armagnac live up to expectations?
Presentation matters, and the 1975 Marcillac presentation is painstakingly crafted and stunningly beautiful. The offering begins with a straight grain, lightly lacquered oak wood cartridge, baby’s bottom smooth, with radius corners and a pale pink satin sheen logo applied slightly below center. The top two fifths of the pill box is removable and fastened to the base on two sides with a flush inset tan leather patch, beset with a pair of rose gold finish metal snap fasteners straight off the pocketflap of a country western shirt.
The velveteen interior gingerly cradles a seventy centiliter Basquaise style bottle of Armangac, round with flat front and back and projecting bottleneck. The front bottlepanel displays a centered pale mauve sans serif M with an equilateral fleur de lis cross set between its peaks. The serifed all caps family name is inscribed below: MARCILLAC.
The back panel includes the vintage year 1975 in tall narrow gothic letterform with a cross stroke thought the torso of the seven. A handwritten bottle number, 12/500, resides below in gold metallic oil-based paint marker.
The bottleneck is fitted with a pearled rose gold paper collar. Burnt sienna sealing wax extends from collartop to bottletop, encasing a natural cork and wood bottle stopper.
The Marcillac presentation is thoughtfully considered and exhibits a throughline of elegance and restraint. The design achieves further interest from the artful combination of elements both traditional (bottle shape, fleur de lis cross) and modern (sans serif M and iphone shaped wood case).
The brandy inside is a luminous Kenyan copper color. The Armagnac is continuous column distilled and originates from Ugni Blanc grapes grown in sandy, gravel-rich soil, Lot-et-Garonne, Armagnac-Ténerèze AOC. It has been aged in Gascon black oak casks for over forty years, stored in an above ground masonry structure and bottled at forty two percent alcohol.
Prior to eyeing this bottle, I’d never heard of Marcillac Armagnac, and information on the domaine is rather scarce. The sole purveyor reports that the Marcillac estate was first established by Prémontré monks in the 12th century. In 1730 a wine merchant from Bordeaux acquired the estate, converted the monk’s abbey to a castle and further developed the vineyard. The estate was purchased by the Marcillac family in 1900 and is operated today by fourth generation progeny. Current Marcillac offerings include a 1964, ‘70, ‘75 and ‘95. Production is limited to 500 bottles per vintage.
Accompanying Marcillac’s sleek appearance and rich history is a lofty price tag. This particular ’75 will set you back $338 as of posting, and with shipping you’re approaching four bills.
So our expectations have been set, and set high. So now the obvious question: Will the ‘75 Marcillac live up to these expectations?
Only one way to find out.
TASTING NOTES #31
1975 Marcillac
Aged in Oak Casks for over 40 years
42% ABV
Color: Deep reddish copper.
Nose: A dark, sweet intensity strikes the nose immediately. Notes of red cherry reduction, date, butterscotch, crusty apple and plum pie, vanilla, candied fruits, and on one tasting, a trace of bubble gum. Off to an impressive start.
Palate: An assertive palate of sangria with orange fruit, grapefruit peel, baked fig, hazelnut skin, apricot compote. Soft and silky mouthfeel. Flavor-forward with smooth and rounded edges.
Finish: Initially dates, oak, nectarine pit, and a caramelly sweetness. But the flavor parade continues: the caramel turns to dark chocolate, then licorice and fennel seed. Finally, minutes later, a faint but unmistakable trace of herbal, tannic Chartreuse liqueur, perhaps a holy relic handed down from the monks.
Summary: Rich and somewhat muscular, yet refined. A bold brandy that never loses is composure, and impresses from first inhalation on the nose to last exhalation on the finish.
Score: 93
I was fully prepared for the beauty of the ’75 Marcillac presentation to outstrip the beauty within the bottle, but this Armagnac is excellent. Its style and flavor profile are more like a Bas Armagnac than a Tenereze, perhaps resulting from the soil composition, which is more characteristic of Bas Armganac terroir. Marcillac is clearly not a value pick, but the quality of the brandy is equal to its presentation and price tag. If you are in the market for a top-shelf Armagnac expression, look no further.
As of 3/6/22 available at Cognac Expert ($338, ships to the U.S.)
AOML Rating scale:
<75 Not recommended
75-79 Average, contains some flaws
80-84 Good, well-made Armagnac
85-89 Very good, an Armagnac with special qualities
90-94 Outstanding, an Armagnac of exceptional character and style
95-100 Classic, an Armagnac for the ages