Purgatory
Death, Destiny and Chateau de Busca
The 500 acre estate of Chateau du Busca-Manniban resides in the sleepy commune of Mansencôme, France, population 46. The estate has been producing mahogany-colored Armagnac since 1649, during the reign of King Louis XIV, and before the discovery of gravity.
The Busca estate resides in the Ténerèze AOC. In terms of both geography and reputation, Ténerèze is the middle child of the three Armagnac appellations. To the east, Bas Armagnac is the overachieving darling, its lower altitude and sandy soils producing what is widely considered to be the most elegant and desirable Armagnac. To the west, Haut Armagnac is the withdrawn recluse, producing only 1% of all Armagnac, it’s limestone-rich soils better suited for other crops. Nestled in between, Ténerèze produces a brandy that’s sometimes thin and muted, and sometimes deep, powerful and utterly spectacular. Despite the occasional masterpiece, Ténerèze is outshined, its accents aigu and grave never quite culminating in a summit.
Busca’s namesake chateau is a sprawling, historic 17th century yellowstone mansion, complete with double-height entry, a chapel, a vaulted barrel cellar. It’s at once grand — handsome arches here, an elegant staircase there — yet lesser than the sum of its parts, never quite synthesizing into cohesive architectural glory.
The estate is planted primarily with cereal crops, with 60 acres allocated to the cultivation of Ugni Blanc grapes. The white varietal grows particularly well in the the fertile clay~limestone soils and gusty Autan winds.
In recent years, a fog has descended upon the Busca estate, shrouding it in uncertainty. The heirs have lost interest in continuing to run operations, and Chateau du Busca no longer bottles Armagnac under their label. Juice from the grapes is sold into a cooperative. The mansion tours are halted. The estate is for sale.
And thus the Chateau, devoid of purpose or direction, dwells in Purgatory. Pergatoire. The waiting room. Here nor there. The Inbetween.
By all rights, given the character and strength of the estate’s Armagnac, this should be a coveted property, a crown jewel for a wealthy landowner or spirits conglomerate, or the next gold-plated distillery venture for George Clooney.
Instead Busca languishes, shackled to the void, suffering the slow torment of limbo. An uncertain fate is arguably more excruciating than a bad one. At least in hell you know you’re fucked.
And so the last few bottles of Busca float around the market, waiting for a shore to wash upon, the orphaned relics of a dead and buried brand.
The Turn
“Everything’s destiny is to change, to be transformed, to perish, so that new things can be born.”
-Marcus Aurelius
We mourn the loss of Chateau du Busca, and rightfully so. There are precious few quality producers of Armagnac, and this one has quietly slipped into oblivion. One can’t help but feel the languishing estate is emblematic of Armagnac itself: undervalued, misunderstood.
But like the Ugni Blanc vines, there is a time to turn sun and sand and rainwater into heavenly juice. And then there is a time for the harvest. To strip the branches bare, to pray for the sun to one day return, so that new things can be born.
I warmly hail Busca for the beauty it has coaxed from the earth and bottled for us all to enjoy. Now stripped bare, I look forward to seeing what this brilliant domaine can become. Let us raise our tulip-shaped glasses and toast to the potential of new beginnings.
Hey Clooney. Wanna go halfsies on an Armagnac estate?
TASTING NOTES #49
1975 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 41 Years
41% ABV
Color: Light chestnut in the bottle, orange copper in the glass.
Nose: Apricot, raisin, macadamia nut, snickerdoodle cookie.
Palate: Oak-forward and mildly tannic, with flavors of orange oil, potting soil, chocolate syrup, marzipan.
Finish: Light grip and medium length with notes of mild black licorice and crème de menthe.
Summary: A respectable offering, nice nose with some darker flavors on the palate and finish. While the oak is present, the 41 years in cask doesn’t dominate, probably due to the high acidity of the Ugni Blanc grape.
Score: 89
TASTING NOTES #50
1978 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 38 Years
42% ABV
Color: Mahogany in the bottle, copper in the glass.
Nose: Stewed stone fruits, butterscotch, carrot cake.
Palate: Silky mouthfeel, vanilla ice cream, marzipan cake frosting, citrus peel, lime zest, pepper.
Finish: Pencil lead, butterscotch again, damp forest soil, menthol, oaky tannins.
Summary: A promising nose leads to a somewhat limited palate and long, lingering if not slightly bitter finish dappled with some sweetness. Overall, a lovely Ténerèze.
Score: 90
TASTING NOTES #51
1979 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 27 Years
42% ABV
Color: Mahogany.
Nose: Dark cherry, butterscotch crème brûlée, baked pineapple, caramel covered apple, dash of cinnamon, candied orange, a touch of antiseptic and a trace of a dusty old Bordeaux. A gift that keeps on giving.
Palate: An oily smooth mouthfeel with notes of honey, rye, melted butter, soy sauce, cellar floor.
Finish: The abundant sweetness of the nose and palate suddenly disappear and this brandy leaves in its long wake flavors pine and soft, rounded oak.
Summary: The ’79 Busca offers cornucopia of captivating flavors throughout, you could spend an hour with an ounce or two. I went back to this expression time and again thinking “it can’t really be as good as I remember,” and yet it always was. One of the most pleasurable Ténerèzes I’ve had, it approaches legendary status.
Score: 94
TASTING NOTES #52
1981 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 24 Years
42% ABV
Color: Chestnut brown.
Nose: Flat cola, forest undergrowth, eucalyptus leaf, seawater.
Palate: Burnt sugar, oak, rancio.
Finish: Simple and straightforward, but with considerable length. A good bit of oak, some alpine herbs, a touch more eucalyptus, pencil lead and licorice root.
Summary: Relative to other Buscas, a bit thin, flat and uncomplex, absent of many of the best qualities of the label.
Score: 81
TASTING NOTES #53
1983 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 30 Years
42% ABV
Color: Deep chestnut.
Nose: Hazlenut cream, orange rind, sandalwood, prune, old leather shoe, pepper.
Palate: Soft and luscious mouthfeel. Baked peach, warm gingerbread cookie, beeswax, wet oak.
Finish: Fizzy cola, sugar cookie, soft round oak, lingering sweet caramel and the slightest hint of Dr. Pepper.
Summary: A really lovely Busca, smooth, flavorful, sweet and balanced throughout. I bought another bottle after tasting. The flavor profile that speaks to enjoying in the late fall and early winter months.
Score: 91
TASTING NOTES #54
1985 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 25 Years
43% ABV
Color: Dusty orange-copper.
Nose: Candied orange, green raisin, almond, breath mint.
Palate: A soft and undemonstrative palate with traces of almond, cola.
Finish: Oak, light rancio, black pepper, dark chocolate with a soft underlying sweetness.
Summary: A subtle, easygoing uncomplex Armagnac. The ’85 Busca will appeal to those who don’t want much of a challenge from their spirit. For my taste, the ’85 is respectable but too timid.
Score: 83
TASTING NOTES #55
1986 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 30 Years
42% ABV
Color: Mahogany.
Nose: A light nose of Coca-Cola, caramel.
Palate: Soft texture with Irish cream, black pepper.
Finish: Walnut, decomposed leaves, light oak, herbs.
Summary: A tentative and watery on the nose and mouth, with a bit more expression on the finish.
Score: 81
TASTING NOTES #56
1988 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 28 Years
43% ABV
Color: Chestnut.
Nose: A pleasing nose of honey, dried apricot, flowers, an occasional trace of smoke.
Palate: Smooth mouth feel with vanilla cake, peach pit, pineapple, middle eastern spices.
Finish: Medium to long finish with dry spice rub, new oak, soft banana.
Summary: Trending a bit fruitier and lighter for a Ténerèze, this is a well-balanced and very pleasing Busca.
Score: 87
TASTING NOTES #57
1989 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 19 Years
43% ABV
Color: Chestnut brown.
Nose: Caramel all day. Napoleon pastry, green pear, Belgian waffle, Long Island iced tea.
Palate: Smooth and soft mouthfeel. Flavors of supple leather, cereal, a touch of honeysuckle.
Finish: An astringent finish with anise, spearmint, Old Spice and lingering black pepper.
Summary: A quality offering containing some lovely flavors, but a bit too dominated by astringency on the mouth and finish.
Score: 85
TASTING NOTES #58
1991 Chateau du Busca
Aged in Oak Casks for 22 Years
44% ABV
Color: Deep mahogany with red highlights.
Nose: Cherry, honeycrisp apple, warm baking spices.
Palate: Soft and viscous mouthfeel. Orange zest, dried fruit, fig, maple syrup, pepper.
Finish: A long sweet finish of stewed fruit, dates, cane sugar, a hint of black licorice, and salted caramel in the far distance.
Summary: Summertime, and the livin’s easy.
Score: 89
AOML Rating scale:
<75 Not recommended
75-79 Average, contains some flaws
80-84 Good, well-made Armagnac
85-89 Very good, an Armagnac with special qualities
90-94 Outstanding, an Armagnac of exceptional character and style
95-100 Classic, an Armagnac for the ages