Value Picks: Cardinat
Rich, balanced and fruit-forward, these Cardinat Armagnacs exude luscious opulence, and just as remarkably, are being offered at a phenomenal price. Pound for pound, you’ll be hard-pressed to find better Armagnac value anywhere.
Three Recent Releases
In March of 2021, K&L Wine Merchants offered a honeyed, 21-year-aged 1998 Cardinat. The brandy’s excellent quality was itself newsworthy, but its $60 price tag made it truly red-letter. The small allocation sold out in days.
Last week K&L swung for the fences, offering another ‘98, as well as an ‘88 and ‘05. They’d have been justified to sell each in the triple digits, but instead priced them at $60, $80 and $50 respectively. Inflation? Not here.
It’s criminal these Armagnacs aren’t more widely available in in the United States. They are only offered by K&L and only shipped within the state of California. Stock up if you live in the Golden State, and while you’re at it ship a bottle to a fellow Armagnac lover in one of the other 49.
Good Problems
The 1998 Cardinat releases from 2021 and 2022 are not the same. The former, no longer available for purchase, is aged 21 years with no cask number. The latter, still available as of posting, is aged 23 years and listed as cask no. 105. Given the quality of last year’s ‘98, I was concerned it would outshine this year’s offering. Turns out I can’t decide which is better.
Both 1998’s are a nearly identical reddish amber color, the 21-year is marginally deeper in hue. Both are dominated by fruit and sweet cream flavors with a soft, rounded mouthfeel. The 21-year is more fruit-saturated, while the 23-year is comparatively more refined.
The current ‘88, ‘98 and ‘05 Cardinat vintages are no-brainer Value Picks. All three are still available for purchase as of posting, but like their predecessor, will likely sell out soon. Tasting notes from last year’s ‘98 are included for reference.
TASTING NOTES #45
1988 Cardinat
Aged in Oak Casks for 33 Years
48% ABV
Color: Amber.
Nose: Yellow raisins, herbs, champagne. After some time bright yellow stone fruit, vanilla and soft banana become more prominent.
Palate: Fresh peach, honey, tropical fruit. Sweet and easy, not a trace of bitterness.
Finish: Delightful round oaky spice, cinnamon chewing gum, and a persistent layer of tropical sweetness.
Score: 89
Price: $80
As of 7/17/22 available at K&L Wine Merchants (ships to CA).
The current 1998 Cardinat aged 23 years (left), alongside last year’s 21-year offering.
TASTING NOTES #46
1998 Cardinat
2021 Offering. Aged in Oak Casks for 21 Years
49.5% ABV
Color: Deep reddish amber.
Nose: Cherry jam, nougat, crème brûlée, dried apricot, golden raisins.
Palate: Smooth mouthfeel busting with juicy nectarine, peach cobbler, a backnote of nutmeg.
Finish: The apricot returns, with golden honey, mango, subtle oak, cola.
Score: 91
TASTING NOTES #47
1998 Cardinat
Cask No. 105
2022 Offering. Aged in Oak Casks for 23 Years
49% ABV
Color: Deep reddish amber.
Nose: Ripe stone fruit, cherry pie, custard, caramel.
Palate: Very soft, viscous mouthfeel. Dulce de leche, black tea with cream, more caramel, white pepper.
Finish: Irish cream, spice, fresh cut pine, and a mild sweet fennel, if such a thing exists. A very pleasant, lasting nougat-like sweetness lingers.
Score: 91
Price: $60
As of 7/17/22 54 bottles available at K&L Wine Merchants (ships to CA).
TASTING NOTES #48
2005 Cardinat
Aged in Oak Casks for 16 Years
51% ABV
Color: Amber-orange.
Nose: Caramel, ripe plum, peach, flowers.
Palate: Cocoa, sweet yellow fruits, dry cheese.
Finish: Candied orange, tannic oak, tobacco leaf, lime zest, wax.
Worth multiple tastings. Good complexity and ample variety of flavors from this young Armagnac.
Score: 87
Price: $50
As of 7/17/22 available at K&L Wine Merchants (ships to CA).
AOML Rating scale:
<75 Not recommended
75-79 Average, contains some flaws
80-84 Good, well-made Armagnac
85-89 Very good, an Armagnac with special qualities
90-94 Outstanding, an Armagnac of exceptional character and style
95-100 Classic, an Armagnac for the ages