Tasting Notes #17-20

TASTING NOTES #17

1964 Chateau de la Grangerie

Leon Beyries “La Hauresse”

Aged in Oak Casks for 54 Years

43% ABV

Color: Amber with orange highlights.

Nose: Dark stone fruit, salted caramel.

Palate: Sweet yellow raisin, bitters.

Finish: Dry oak, molasses and a trailing taste of moss-covered rock.

Summary: This Grangerie contained considerable funk on the nose and palate upon opening and was left to mellow sans-cork for two weeks, which benefitted the brandy. A pleasant nose gives way to a sweet palate and soft mouthfeel, with a rustic, tannic finish. Long aged but not particularly unique or complex, this is a middling Armagnac with sharp elbows.

When to drink: When favoring age before beauty.

Score: 79

TASTING NOTES #18

1981 J. Goudoulin

Aged in Oak Casks for 30 Years

40% ABV

Color: Amber-brown with gold highlights, leaning towards green.

Nose: Light brown sugar, nougat, almond paste, cinnamon baked apple.

Palate: Brown butter, fig jelly.

Finish: White pepper, bitter oak, star anise.

Summary: The candy-like nose is intense and intriguing, followed by a rather one-dimensional palate and a light but lingering finish. While we’ve reviewed some Armagnacs that lack sweetness, the ’81 Goudoulin has sweetness in spades but lacks structure and backbone.

When to drink: Instead of raiding your kids’ stash of Halloween candy, save yourself the calories and get you sugar rush from J. Goudoulin.

Score: 83

As of 10/17/21 available at Mission Wine & Spirits ($130, ships to CA).

TASTING NOTES #19

1998 Chateau de Ravignan

Aged in Oak Casks for 22 Years

42.5% ABV

Color: Dark Copper with red-orange highlights.

Nose: Soft, round and sweet with scents of cherry, Tahitian vanilla custard, Three Musketeers whipped mousse filling.

Palate: Sweet honey on the front of the palette, Annisette and a bundle of woody flavors.

Finish: Licorice, black pepper, caramel.

Summary: The nose is excellent and develops nicely in the glass. The palate is soft and the favors trend a bit more toward licorice than other Ravignan releases. Leaves nougat in the crevices of your teeth.

When to drink: Sunday afternoon in the fall.

Score: 88

As of 10/17/21 available at Flatiron Wines & Spirits ($130, ships to CA); D&M Wines and Liquors ($135, ships to DC, CA, FL, ID, NE, NM, ND, NV).

TASTING NOTES #20

2005 Darroze Domaine Couzard Lassalle

Aged in Oak Casks for 14 Years

50% ABV

Color: Amber with light orange highlights.

Nose: Waffles and maple syrup, Christmas tree, orange marmalade.

Palate: Pancake, salted caramel, rye seed and, sometimes, pink bubblegum.

Finish: Gingerbread, dried herbs, wild radish root, and at the very end, root beer.

Summary: In terms of flavor profile this a classic Couzard-Lassalle, although not quite as rich as other Armagnacs from this domaine, perhaps the result of the comparatively short barrel aging. With more time in barrel, could the 2005 have achieved the glory of the ‘93? The world may never know.

When to drink: Pour it over your pancakes.

Score: 86

As of 10/17/21 available at K&L Wines, ($110, ships to AL, CA, DC, FL, ND, NH, NM, NV, OR).

AOML Rating scale:

<75 Not recommended

75-79 Average, contains some flaws

80-84 Good, well-made Armagnac

85-89 Very good, an Armagnac with special qualities

90-94 Outstanding, an Armagnac of exceptional character and style

95-100 Classic, an Armagnac for the ages